This past week, I recieved the rest of the Genuine Shimano parts from Starbike.com. I should first give you a quick Starbike.com review. They are PHENOMINAL! Their website is straightforward and easy to use. After you order there is a webpage which shows you which parts are Ready for shipment and which they may be waiting on. Once they do ship, the tracking number is uploaded in a timely fashion. Also, they are very responsive via email. In less than one business day, I was able to get an order update, or add an item to my order. Once caviat is they don’t stock every single part they have on their site. Some items take 1-3 days for them to get. Just build it into your estimation when placing your order!
So my parts list from Starbike included the Alfine crank (45t), The tensioner, SRAM 971 chain, Alfine Di2 Motor unit, 20t cog, Di2 wires, Internal Junction, battery, Alfine screen, and wires.
The goal has always been to have as much internal routing of the cables as possible, but to hopefully not cause catastrophe by weakinging the aluminum. Besides the cleanliness of the look, this being a commuting bike means that the more internal connections there are, the less there is able to steal off the bike. The big thing is the battery, but external junctions are at risk too. I have two paths in mind for the routing. The first, is running the cable from the display THROUGH the handlebars, throught the stem and then down the fork meeting the internal junction in the downtube. This would be the cleanest way. Problems would arise with drilling holes in the aluminum bullhorn bars. There is definitely conflicting reports on both sides of the argument, but really why risk changing the structural properties of the handlebar and causing them to fail. I could just buy predrilled handlebars, but would still have to have a hole in the center of the bar opening them up to the stem. The second option, which may be a little safer, is to drill a hole in the down tube and route the cable there, bypassing any holes in the handlebars. SO far, I am leaning towards option ONE and made a few routing holes in the fork. If I stick with option one I will prbably get steel or predrilled bars for some piece of mind.
As you can see below, I used a 13/64ths bit to make the first hole which lets the di2 cable slide through perfectly. Then i opened up a 45 degree angle with a 7/32 to ease the angle the cable needs to pass through.
Yesterday has brought another gift in the mail. I was able to find a new Alfine Di2 hub and wheel on our favorite auction site for a good price. It arrived perfectly in tact and was packed professionally. It looks pretty clean! The next step is to wait for the rest of the parts to arrive in the next big shipment. Once I have all the parts, I’ll connect up the Di2 system and confirm it all works. After that… there comes the fun in routing the Di2 cables.
Step one: Taking the bike apart and getting the frame repainted. I took the frame to Heritage Bicycles and they resprayed it with a more Matte Black, after bead blasting the old paint off for just 100 bucks. Excellent work! It looks SO much nicer without all of those tacky Motobecane logos.
Step two: Clean up the logos on the carbon fork. I took some wet/dry sand paper and sanded down the clear coat till the logos came off and then resprayed with more clear coat. EASY.